Camellia

What blooms in winter in Austin? Deer Resistant Camellias!

SKUs – 5943, 7091, and 7563

Camellias, cultivated in Asia for at least 1000 years, have 2 main types grown in Austin. Japanese and Sasanqua. Both have glossy green leaves and rose shaped flowers. Neither do well in salty coastal areas or in windy spots. Flower colors range from whites to pinks and reds. Use as a screen, a specimen, or in containers.

Japanese are large and upright. Depending on variety, blooms occur from October through march and the large flowers are often double. The leaves are somewhat rougher than Sasanqua.

SIZE: 8-15ft H, 5-10ft W

Sasanquas tend to be rounded in shape. Blooms are smaller and often slightly scented, appearing autumn to winter, variety dependent. This variety can take a bit more sun than Japanese. Overall plant size is smaller than the Japanese and the leaves more delicate.

SIZE: 2-5ft+H, 2-5ft W

Cultural Notes

LIGHT: Filtered sun/dappled shade. Shield them from late afternoon sun. Full shade will reduce blooming significantly.

SOIL: Well drained, organically rich. Preferred PH is somewhat acidic at 5.8-6.5.

WATER: Critical for establishing plants, sometimes up to 2 years. Older plants with a canopy that shades their roots can tolerate somewhat drier conditions. Regardless of plant age, supplemental water during bud formation is important. However, they do not like wet feet.

FEEDING: According to the American Camellia Society, fertilize in March after blooming, again early May, and July. Younger plants will need more nitrogen than established.

NEW PLANTING: Best done October through March. Austin soil tends to be neutral to alkaline so add peat moss during planting.

PRUNING: Best done just after blooms are finished. Blooms form new wood.

COMPOST and MULCH: Camellias need these to keep the roots shaded, especially for younger plants. An inch or 2 is usually good. As they break down these products also add acidity to the soil. Always keep compost and mulch away from the trunk. https://www.austintexas.gov/blog/mulch-key-healthy-austin-tree

FAQ’s

Why is my Camellia dropping buds?

Camellias often set more buds than they can support but bud drop can also happen after:

  1. A sudden freeze
  2. Over or under watering
  3. An extremely dense inside is shading the interior

Camellia leaves look scorched/faded– Why?

Camellias can get sunscald if they are in a very sunny location. Move to a shadier location and give a bit more water.

Why are the leaves yellow with green veins?

  • Most likely Chlorosis resulting from soil that is not acid enough. Treat soil with chelated iron. Also amend soil with sphagnum peat moss and/or garden sulfur.
  • A magnesium deficiency is also possible. Treat soil with Epsom Salts. When in doubt, get your soil tested. It is also perfectly normal for some leaves to turn yellow as the plant ages.

I want to keep my Camellia in a pot. What should I do?

A general rule of thumb, a 5-gallon Camellia should be planted in a pot that is 16 to 18 inches wide. Use a ratio of 50% peat moss and 50% potting soil.

How do I prune my Camellia?

  • Prune just after bloom – within 30 days.
  • Use sharp sheers for clean cuts. TIP – disinfect tools regularly.
  • Remove dead/diseased branches and crossing branches.
  • Thin out over dense inside growth to encourage sunlight.
  • Trim leggy branches back to joint with previous branch – avoiding damaging ridge by cutting to close.
  • Never prune more than 1/3rd of the plant away at a time.

What’s the best way to enjoy long lasting bloom?

Plant at least one of each – of course!

We have both kinds of Camellia in stock AND everything you need to plant and care for them. Come on by Leaf Landscape Supply and choose your winter Camellia pick me up!

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